Wallpaper Paste Guide: Paste-the-Wall Tips

Paste-the-wall wallpaper needs a wallpaper paste made for non-woven papers, usually labeled for paste-the-wall or non-woven use. Roll it directly onto the wall, one drop-width at a time, hang the dry paper into it and wipe any excess from the face with a damp sponge. Every Martha Stewart design at No Two Houses hangs this way.

10/28/2026
Nicki Baldwin

Words by

Nicki Baldwin

Marketing Controller

I lead a team of product and brand developers, shaping ideas into rooms that people actually want to live with. With a background and passion in interiors, I’m drawn to how design meets real life what works, what doesn’t, and why. Here, I share thoughts on products, brands, and how to curate them to create a home you truly love.

Why does non-woven wallpaper need a specific wallpaper paste?

Non-woven wallpaper is built on a dimensionally stable backing, which means it does not stretch or swell when it meets moisture. That is the whole reason you can paste the wall rather than the paper and hang each length dry. A wallpaper adhesive for non-woven wallpaper is formulated to match that behavior: it holds the paper firmly without soaking it, stays workable long enough to slide a length into position, and dries clear so any trace left on the face disappears. Pastes made for traditional paper-backed designs are mixed to be absorbed into the paper as it soaks, and that is not what a non-woven backing needs. Buy a paste whose tub or box says it is suitable for non-woven or paste-the-wall papers, and you have already made the most important decision. For the method itself, the live post on what paste the wall wallpaper is covers it in full.

What paste should you use for paste-the-wall wallpaper?

Choose a paste whose packaging names non-woven, paste-the-wall or heavy-duty use. Those labels tell you the adhesive has enough grab and the right body to sit on a vertical wall without running, which is exactly what you need when the wall, not the paper, carries the paste. Beyond that, the choice comes down to how it is sold. Most adhesives come either ready-mixed in a tub or as a powder you mix with water, and both work well for non-woven papers when they carry the right label. Every Martha Stewart wallpaper in the collection at No Two Houses is non-woven and paste the wall, so one suitable paste serves the whole range, from the smooth printed grain of Martha Stewart Bedford Faux Bois Goose Down to the floral sprigs of Martha Stewart Garden Stripe Linen.

 

Ready-mixed vs powder wallpaper paste: which should you choose?

Both types will hang a non-woven paper beautifully. The real difference is convenience against control, so match the format to your project and your patience.

 

Ready-mixed paste

Powder paste

Preparation

None; open the tub and stir

Mix with water and leave to thicken per the pack

Consistency

Set at the factory, very even

You control thickness by adjusting water

Best for

Smaller rooms, first-time hangers, quick jobs

Larger rooms, several rooms, hangers who like to adjust

Storage once opened

Keep the lid sealed; use within the time stated on the tub

Mixed paste has a limited life; dry powder keeps longer

Mess and clean-up

Minimal

Slightly more, from mixing

 

Ready-mixed paste removes one variable on hanging day, which is why so many decorators keep a tub on hand. Powder paste rewards a little attention: mix it in a clean bucket, whisk until there are no lumps, let it stand as the instructions direct and stir again before you start. Either way, follow the paste manufacturer's guidance on mixing ratios and open time rather than any rule of thumb.

How much wallpaper paste do you need?

The coverage figure you need is printed on the paste tub or box, and it is the only one worth trusting because it reflects that product's thickness and the way it is meant to be applied. Check the stated coverage, compare it with the wall area you are papering and buy a little more than the math suggests. Walls drink paste unevenly: a freshly skimmed wall, a patch of filler or a textured surface will take more than a sound, painted wall. Running out mid-length is the one shortage that can spoil a seam, so an extra tub is simple insurance against a stalled afternoon. Working out how many rolls of paper the room needs is a separate calculation, and our guide to how much wallpaper you need walks through it.

Should you apply wallpaper paste with a roller or a brush?

Most decorators use both. A roller gets an even coat across the open wall quickly, and a brush reaches the places a roller cannot.

  • Medium-pile roller: the workhorse. It lays a consistent film of paste over the main wall area with far less effort than brushing.
  • Pasting brush: for edges, corners, around outlets and switches, and along the baseboard and ceiling line, where a roller leaves gaps or skids paste onto the trim.
  • Small foam roller: handy above doors and windows and on narrow strips beside a corner.
  • Roller tray or paste bucket with a grid: lets you load the roller evenly instead of scooping straight from the tub.

Aim for a coat that looks wet and glossy but not dripping. Too thin and the paper may lift at the edges as it dries; too heavy and paste will squeeze out at the seams and across the face. A visible, even sheen across the whole drop-width is the target.

Do you need to prime or size the wall before pasting?

New plaster, freshly skimmed walls and very porous surfaces need sealing first. Bare plaster pulls moisture straight out of the paste, which can leave the adhesive weak before the paper has a chance to bond. Sizing, which is a thinned coat of wallpaper paste or a dedicated primer-sealer applied the day before, evens out that absorbency so the full-strength paste sits on the surface and does its job. It also gives you a slightly slippery surface, making it easier to slide each length into position against the previous one. Sound, matte painted walls generally need only a clean with sugar soap, a rinse and a full dry. Glossy paint should be lightly sanded so the paste has something to grip. If the room was papered before, the old covering comes off first; our companion guide to removing wallpaper covers that stage.

How to apply wallpaper paste to the wall: step by step

The following steps focus on the paste. For positioning, matching and trimming each length, the live how to hang wallpaper post and the downloadable how to hang wallpaper guide cover the full method.

  1. Prepare the paste. Stir a ready-mixed tub thoroughly. Mix powder paste in a clean bucket exactly as the pack directs, let it stand, then stir again.
  2. Mark your first drop. Use a level or plumb line to mark a true vertical where the first length will go. Paste one drop-width at a time, slightly wider than the paper, so the wall is never pasted far ahead of you.
  3. Roll the open wall. Load the roller evenly and work from ceiling to baseboard in overlapping strokes until the whole drop-width carries an even, glossy coat.
  4. Brush the edges. Cut in along the ceiling line, baseboard and any corner or outlet with the pasting brush. Thin spots at the edges are where paper lifts later.
  5. Hang the dry length. Take the paper straight from the roll or your cut lengths, offer it up to the ceiling with a small overlap and smooth it into the paste from the center outward.
  6. Check the seam. Butt the next length to the first without overlapping. If paste squeezes out, wipe it immediately; do not let it dry on the face.
  7. Repeat. Paste only the next drop-width before each new length so the adhesive stays fresh and workable.

How do you handle corners, excess paste and drying time?

Internal corners are rarely perfectly square, so do not try to wrap a full length around one. Cut the length so it turns the corner by roughly half an inch to one inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm), paste the next wall and hang the following length to the corner, overlapping that small margin. Trim through the overlap if the pattern allows, or leave it where the corner hides it. A comparison of paste the paper vs paste the wall explains why this is simpler with a non-woven backing.

Every Martha Stewart wallpaper is spongeable, so excess paste on the face can be lifted with a clean, damp sponge while it is still wet. Use clean water, rinse the sponge often and dab rather than scrub. Drying time depends on the paste, the wall and the room, so follow the paste manufacturer's instructions, keep the room at a steady temperature and resist heating it to hurry things along. Fast, uneven drying is the usual cause of open seams.

Frequently asked questions about wallpaper paste

Can I use ordinary wallpaper paste on paste-the-wall wallpaper?

Only if the packaging says it is suitable for non-woven or paste-the-wall papers. Many all-purpose pastes are, but check the label rather than assume.

Is ready-mixed wallpaper paste better than powder?

Neither is better for the finished result. Ready-mixed is faster and more forgiving; powder is economical for larger projects and lets you adjust consistency.

Do I paste the wall or the paper for Martha Stewart wallpaper?

Paste the wall. All 41 Martha Stewart designs at No Two Houses are non-woven, paste-the-wall papers, so the length goes up dry.

What happens if I get wallpaper paste on the front of the paper?

Wipe it off right away with a clean, damp sponge. The Martha Stewart papers are spongeable, and most pastes dry clear, but dried paste can leave a sheen.

How long should I wait before pasting a newly plastered wall?

Until the plaster is fully dry and has been sized or sealed. Follow the plaster and paste manufacturers' guidance, since timings vary with thickness and conditions.

Ready to put the right wallpaper paste to work?

With a non-woven paste in the tub and a roller in hand, the hardest part is choosing a design. Browse the full Martha Stewart wallpaper collection at No Two Houses, or start with a single sample of Martha Stewart Garden Stripe Linen to see how the paper feels before you commit. Order a sample from any product page and take it to the wall before you pick up the roller.